Follow along as we install Warn's X8000i winch on this 1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara. We used Warn's TJ mount plate to mate the two together. This is a fairly easy job that can be tackeled in the garage with regular tools. Please note: This is a simple documentation and not a substitute for the manufacturer's directions. This shows other Wrangler owners what they can expect installing a winch on their vehicles. As with any install, use extreme caution and always read the directions.
;)
Step 1: Remove the factory tow hooks. Set
them aside. Make sure you keep the torex bolts as they will be used to
mount new tow hooks back to the
front bumper. The factory Mopar tow hooks will not work for winch install
as they are offset and will not fit between the winch and the factory fog
lights. If you do not have the factory fog lights, then the tow hooks will
work fine, you will just have to switch sides with the tow hooks.
(Click picture to enlarge)
;)
Step 2: Remove the anti-sway bar
cover. This is done by removing two bolts on either side of cover. The
bolts attach into the frame on what would be just behind the fog lights in
the picture above. You may put the bolts back into the holes after
removing the cover. You may also want to save this cover in case you ever
remove the winch. If not, this would leave the anti-sway bar and several brake
lines exposed. (Click picture to
enlarge)
;)
Step 3: After removing the cover above, the
next step is to remove the front bolts that hold down the front anti-sway
bar. Make sure you set these bolts aside as they will be reused. (Click picture to enlarge)
;)
Step 4: This
step is to unbox the winch and get all the parts and pieces situated. At
this point you DO NOT want to undue the rubber band
holding the winch cable to the drum. Set the instructions aside, find the
bolt packet that comes with it. (Click picture to
enlarge)
;)
Step 5: Mount the
roller fairlead to the winch mount using the bolts provided with the winch
kit. (Click picture to enlarge)
;)
Step 6: Test fit the winch on the mounting
plate to make sure all the holes line up and to get a feel for how it fits
together. (Click the picture to
enlarge)
;)
Step 7: After you are happy with the fit,
fit the nuts into the winch slots around the base. The nuts will slide
into the holes. The bolts will then go up from under the base into the
nuts to tighten the winch down. (Click picture to
enlarge)
;)
Step 8: Test fit the whole assembly (winch
mount and winch) to the Jeep. Make sure all the holes line up, etc. You
will notice the back two holes will need to be shimmed as they sit just a
little lower than the bumper. (Click picture to
enlarge)
;)
Step 9: The next step is to cover
sections of the two cables (positive / negative) with wire loom to protect
it from fraying and being cut while running it under / through the
grille. Note the red cable with the wire loom over it. Run the wires
away from heat sources and the radiator. (Click
picture to enlarge)
;)
Step 10: Tighten down the rear bolts holding
the winch plate. Note: these will have to be shimmed with washers that
come with the mounting plate. You will use the bolts that you took out in
step 3. With the salt on the roads in the North East, we chose to put some
greas on them before tightening them. (Click picture
to enlarge)
;)
Step 11: Now you will want to put some
grease on your tow hook bolts and mount the NEW tow hooks through the winch plate into
the bumper / frame. This is where your step could vary. If you don't have
factory fog lights, then you will have to swap your tow hooks to the
opposite side and mount them. the usual thing Wrangler owners do is buy an
after market set of cheap tow hooks to use. We used heavy duty 10,000lb
models. They run about $10.00 each at any local auto parts store.
(Click picture to enlarge)
;)
Step 12: The next
thing we did was to cut the rubber band holding the cable to the drum.
Caution: once the runner band is cut, the
cable will unravel a little with some force. Use extreme caution and wear a
pair of leather gloves when reaching towards the drum to put the cable
through the roller fairlead. Once through, get the hook and undo the
cotter pin. Put the cable through and force the cotter pin back in. Make
sure you bend the cotter pin ends well. (Click
picture to enlarge)
;)
Step 13: The next step is to hook up the
positive and negative ends of the winch cables. If you have an Optima
battery with side posts DO NOT mount the winch cables to
the side posts. The side posts are connected to the top posts by a thin
piece of metal and are not rated for heavy loads the winch can demand.
(Click picture to enlarge)
;)
Step 14: One of the few final steps is to
clean up the install with some zip ties. Make sure the wires are ran
together and zip them together. This will keep them in place and out of harms
way. (Click picture to enlarge)
;)
Step 15: Congratulations, you are all done...almost. (Click picture to enlarge)
;)
Step 16: (The final one) Before you go
out and get yourself stuck, you have to seat the winch cable. At the
factory, the winch cable is loosly wrapped around the drum. If you winch under
load with out first unspooling it and respooling it under load, the
cable could tighten up and damage the wraps underneath it. We hooked the cable
to a rear receiver clevis on the Cherokee and pulled the TJ to it. The TJ was
in neutral, this provides ample enough load to spool the cable in tightly.
(Click picture to enlarge)
NOTE: A winch is a useful tool to extract a stuck vehicle, but can also be very dangerous. Please read your winch owners manual about how to safely and correctly operate your winch. Look for a future tech article on this website coving safe winching practices.
Vehicle
owner: Steve Schiefer
Photos and words: Bryan Penberthy
Install perfomred by:
Steve Schieffer, Bryan Penberthy, Dave "The Tortoise" Turchiarelli